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Paddling out on the 9 footer, Caveman scawled in black marker on the upside near the top. Several waves gang up on me. I am like a dirty sock in the washing machine and enjoy the pounding thinking somehow it will make me clean again. Finally outside. I find an uncrowded piece of liquid real estate a bit on the inside. The waves pop up mush out close out peak a boo and I dodge them all. I want to charge but they are all mirages. Several times I paddle for a wave - only to sniff out close-out treachery - its time to throw myself backward into a sitting position on the board and keeping from going down the falls.

Then a wave arrives just for me and I know it, grab water, left, right, left, right and then its got me in its hand like a mini king kong and bam I am on my feet and carving down the right side of a head high wave that is breaking just right, I find the power strip and slide along with white foam chasing behind me. A surfer starts to drop in and then sees me, looks hard over his left shoulder and then disappears over the edge of the wave. I cruise along, make the next section and then get off the ride before it ends on the rocks. I catch several more before the high tide makes a mess of things.